Nestled in the heart of Myanmar, Bagan stands as one of the most captivating destinations in the country. With its vast expanse of rural landscapes adorned with thousands of pagodas, this city offers a mesmerizing experience of history and culture. Once the capital of the Pagan Kingdom, the precursor to modern-day Myanmar, Bagan witnessed the construction of over 10,000 pagodas, showcasing extraordinary craftsmanship. These architectural marvels were symbols of Buddhist faith, believed to ensure a smooth transition to the next life through reincarnation. Each pagoda in Bagan reflects the devotion and artistic finesse of its creators, making it an enchanting place to explore.
Why Visit Bagan
Even if you have already encountered a plethora of temples, pagodas, and stupas in your travels, Bagan will undoubtedly leave an indelible impression on your heart. Situated alongside the Irrawaddy River, approximately 700 kilometers north of Yangon and 300 kilometers south of Mandalay, Bagan boasts an unparalleled history and an abundance of pagodas. Despite the aftermath of several earthquakes, which reduced the original number of pagodas to around 2,000, the city retains its rustic charm and offers a landscape that sets it apart from other tourist spots in Myanmar.
When to Visit Bagan
The peak season to explore Bagan is between December and February during the dry season. The region experiences scorching hot days, but mornings and evenings can be surprisingly chilly. It’s advisable to dress in layers when venturing out to witness the breathtaking sunrises and sunsets at the pagodas. Keep in mind that climbing pagodas barefoot is a customary practice, in accordance with religious rules, so carrying a warm jumper can protect you from the cold during these sacred moments.
Getting Around Bagan
Upon arrival, the first question that arises is how to navigate the city to fully experience the splendor of its pagodas. Fortunately, Bagan offers various transportation options, each with its own advantages.
Personally, I prefer exploring on foot whenever possible, but Bagan’s expansive area makes it impractical. So, I had to settle for a bicycle, although the majority of bicycles available in Bagan seem to have endured the test of time. With bumpy and dusty roads, my journey was not without its challenges, but renting a bicycle costs only 2,000MMK per day. Alternatively, e-bikes are available for 8,000MMK.
For a more romantic and tranquil experience, consider a horse carriage ride, costing around 20,000MMK for a full day’s tour of the temples. This leisurely mode of transport allows you to savor the breathtaking landscape at a slower pace. In my case, a heated debate with my travel companion led us to experience both the bicycle and horse carriage options.
If comfort is a priority, hiring a car for the day offers the most convenience. With a tailored itinerary to suit your preferences, a car costs around 25,000MMK and allows you to explore more of the city.
The truly iconic sight of Bagan is the hot air balloons that grace the skyline during sunrise. This once-in-a-lifetime experience offers panoramic views of the pagodas and landscape. Keep in mind that hot air balloon rides come with a price tag of around 300 USD and require advance booking due to their popularity.
Accommodation in Bagan
Finding affordable accommodation in Bagan can be challenging, and the standards may not match those in major cities or even in Inle Lake, where modern and well-equipped hotels are abundant. Old Bagan hosts some of the finest hotels, some even offering stunningviews of the pagodas. However, expect higher prices, often exceeding $100 per night, unless you stumble upon a favorable deal. Many travelers opt to stay in Nyaung U, which offers more budget-friendly guesthouses and hotels. Despite the lower cost, it’s just a short journey from the historic city center. Another option is New Bagan, located south of the old city and adjacent to the river.
Food & Drink
Similar to accommodation, dining in Bagan can be pricier compared to other destinations. Upscale restaurants offer a variety of Western and Asian dishes, but prices can exceed $15 per person. However, venturing away from the main strip reveals smaller eateries where you can still enjoy excellent food, including traditional Myanmar dishes like tea leaf salad, for just a couple of dollars.
Onward Travel
If time efficiency is a priority, flying is the easiest way to continue your journey from Bagan. Daily flights connect Bagan to major cities like Yangon (1 hour 20 minutes), Mandalay (30 minutes), and Heho (40 minutes). However, if you’re on a budget or prefer a more local experience, traveling by bus is a great option. In fact, taking a night bus from Yangon to Bagan allows you to arrive around 4:30 am, just in time for witnessing the captivating sunrise over the pagodas.
Train travel offers a slower but immersive experience, allowing you to interact with locals and admire the culture and scenery along the way. Train tickets can be purchased at the station or online, and there are different seating classes available. The train journey from Yangon to Bagan takes approximately 12 hours, while the shorter distance from Mandalay takes up to 8 hours.
For a scenic and leisurely approach to reaching Mandalay, consider a cruise along the Irrawaddy River. Although it takes an entire day, the landscapes you’ll encounter during the journey make it a worthwhile experience. Tickets can be purchased online or in advance from ticket agencies and cost around $30 per person.
Safety in Bagan
Bagan is generally considered a safe destination to visit. The main concern revolves around climbing crumbling pagodas. Pay attention to any signs warning of restricted areas and carry a torch if exploring in the dark. Additionally, be aware of the air quality, as wearing a bandanna or scarf can provide some protection. Theft and tourist scams are rare, but it’s common to encounter local guides offering pagoda tours or paintings for sale. A simple “no thank you” will be accepted if you’re not interested in their services.
In conclusion, Bagan offers a truly enchanting experience filled with awe-inspiring pagodas and a captivating history. Plan your visit during the ideal season, choose the transportation that suits your preferences, and relish the unique charm of this remarkable city.